F.36. With such a high sync and multi-exposure feature, even a flash with moderate power, acquires the
capability to over power or as a fill flash on a strongly lit subject. It could
be general outdoor group, a full length, or a portrait shot.
F.37. Multi exposure functions in the form of A cumulative exposure could serve, as filler OR as the main source to
light up an expansive subject like a building exterior (combined with or without ambient light).
F.38. The cumulative exposure an equivalent of painting
with a continuous source of light , but here it is with a flash instead.This
allows the area to be photographed is considered by dividing into multiple segments, there by one could give more attention
to each and every individual segment, more thoroughly and effectively.
F.39. for e.g. we imagine the area to be photographed is divided into say, as many as 4 segment and
flashed upon 4 times on each segment (16 flashes in total) to arrive at a working aperture of f:11 and shutter speed set at
1/1000th sec...if the basic lighting happens to varying from read f:5.6 @1/15thsec.…to f:5.6 @1/125th sec.....explained
in one gust of breadth .
F.40. Or if Explained more clearly in a calm composure: ......
In an indoor of a factory the ambient light + the output of light from multiple heads of High-end photo-flash placed at various position reads at f5.6 @ 1/15thsec., for ISO 100. ..This
would suggest, that it is still a fair situation where hand held shoot could be done, of course suggested here is not ”a hand with vitamin deficiency”, that
tends to shake or all those latest Image-Stabilisation promoted so vigorously by pledging to find a remedy an to completely
eradicate this disability from the world (of photography). It is with respect to the sturdy hands we had in earlier
days, that we should be proud of, but still,..using a tripod is suggested here not because of shaky hand but for a procedure
of multi-exposure. The much brighter
outdoor atmosphere seen through door ways and the presence of more intensity of light near windows may read ... the required
shutter speed of 1/125th sec., for an aperture of f5.6. The
shoot could be executed by either of the following way. But primarily the camera
is mounted on a steady Tripod, explained.
F.41. a)...Instead of f5.6 @1/15th.sec.....of light value that is read
we opt for f:11, the shutter speed is now lengthened to 1/4th.sec.
in order for an extended the depth of field. ..For a HDR method a few more exposures
upto 1/30th.sec is made without changing the aperture or the pattern of lighting, if at all we are optimistic
in doing a shoot with the ambient light only, are you as (a photographer) be
convinced with such thing? Let alone the client.
F.42. Therefore to do it in some what better way and being honest to the craft my making use
of the concept of cumulative exposure and to get an aperture value of F: 11, The entire area of view is flashed upon
4 times with the lights aimed at their respective locations with a multi setup of flash
lights. This would ultimately Begets only a single image from the four number of them exposured one over the other for the
routine of the shot. this is comparatively an easier mode of shooting, but the
resulted image will have where the outdoor area in view would be highly over
exposed or burned out. There fore a shutter speed of 1/125th.sec
is so chosen (the max sync speed), so that the exposure for out door will be OK. But
in doing so you can realise we are not capitalising on the lighting that has prevailed ( ambient)
F.43. b)....Instead of flashing at the same area for four times, on an area of view to be photographed, the entire
area it could be divided into 4 segments or more.... and the flash could be moved
in closer so as to plan for better lighting,.... hence more light could be thrown upon ....we can use simple battery operated
flash-lights of 1/4th or
1/8th the power of a bigger high-end flash lights on each of these segment. For a procedure of such the shutter speed selected would be 1/1000's.
We could get somewhat better result and more economically in balancing exposure of the, out-door and also the in-door.
F.44. We would use 16 flashes to beget single composite image. It might be seen as, that flashing 16 times is
too many for a shoot to gain a single image. The professionals would do aware of this technique that it gives more control
on lighting.
F.45. But there still remain a question of whether we are doing a shoot more intelligently? . Because these exist a discipline of taught especially in the case of industrial photography our
first priority should to make use of the ambient light and accentuate the area
of lighting deficiency by adding more light. For that reason, I wish to
bring forth those controls in the form /name of shadow-selection, lighting @ post production etc., that can help your in addressing the intelligence factor above mentioned. I believe you would acknowledge
these benefit and the following ones you are about to read. But
it is sadder to note A Flash sync at 1/1000th sec., does not exist
in a commercial SLR model of a camera for the moment
F.46. ASPECTS
RELATED TO HIGH SYNC….
F.47. To begin with, as against the maximum sync.speed at 1/250thsec,
which only comes along only with advanced models of camera for them strong adherence to with
focal plane shutter that has to be improvised to a level of 1/1000th.sec. is a deterrent of the present. The shutter that I have been suggesting is suppose to perform all basic requirements of speeds also to a very high
shutter speed. While doing so it would sync a flash virtually at any speed that
too with a complete syn. I am only safely indicating a speed to be in the region 1/4000thsec., but it can have figure that would exceeding the above limit.
F.48. As the Sync happens at all speeds, working at
a fixed wide /moderate aperture would become more comfortable for a novice or a casual snap shooter. as any of shutter speed
to compensate for the varying level of aperture could be automatically selected
by a camera, in a n Aperture priority mode .
F.49. It enables to enhance/subdue or seclude Foreground
against Background by the principle lighting contrast or imbue a differentiation by differing the color rendition. This has
become possible, by utilizing the principle where, only the light from
the flash, would have more impact on subject at close proximity, than a distant
one, along the distance light would
propagate and disperse (as the lighting is divergent in nature) . Equally the subject in the foreground gains more prominence,
in relation to the prevailing (ambient)light probably the sunlight due to strong
power of the flash at close quarter. But it cannot compete the ambient
light hence couldnot influence the lighting falling on the background. The procedure is simply by synchronizing a flash at
a high shutter speed. Wild life photography is one such extreme area of specialization where the output of light
from a normal flash light could be used on a distant subject ,to freeze the motion or,
for a pictorial effect.
F.50. With High sync Darkening of studio becomes unnecessary and sequential firing of flash could be so organized that various filters could be
intercepted in between exposures. The difficulty of executing such a sequence
could be realized at once, if one only has to rely upon, the available mechanism of earlier medium or small format camera.
But these could easily be done by using this shutter, as an in-built facility.
F.51.
This shutter enables to perform
a routine called as two-phase exposure similar as above ...a new kind of mode, probably as it would be called in a
futuristic camera. It is a procedure where two consecutive exposures are made
in quick succession. There by it enables color conversion / compensation procedures that could be made to occur instantaneously, for a situation with mixed-up
sources of light in a scene. e.g. flash and Tungsten illumination. You have some what similar thing but no as competent
called as auto bracketing on white balance in a Digital camera, incidentally
I have had come out with such a thing a few years earlier. It can also provide variations like clear / diffused fore-ground vs back-ground or a subject in the front
against a colorized Back-ground, or vice-versa, or any of a multitude of permutation.
F.52. The high sync feature will help to develop a new type of selection tool
(method) for Image-editing-software. Further the whole shoot could be visualized in-terms of composite photography, i.e.,
one could able to decide the scheme of lighting and various other parameter of
a shoot in a different way and at the post production, considering the prevailing
factors at a location, for e.g :..in a factory shoot: .
F.53.
Just think of the following in an innovative way . Below I
have made reference to large format in the days of usage of films, but in the
context of present day you can have a meaning of using a Digital back of sensor size little smaller than our earlier days
6x4.5 cms format and the reference to 35mm below mentioned could be considered of supplementing by a SLR version of Digital cameras whose sensor is only a fraction of the size of 35 x24mm of a 35mm format.
F.54.
[A].. The rather
non–dynamic elements in a factory as a separate entity – (the expanse of floor space and the machinery) captured
on a larger format using cumulative exposure using all those tricks of cumulative
exposure and with a hand held normal flash.
F.55.
[B].. Then the
action a of human elements posed at close quarter is individually composed using
a zoom lens and panning around without
changing the position of the camera .. with a smaller format of 35mm or Digital
SLR, and the lighting placed closer
of the subject will have a more creative effect and controllability.
F.56. The above selection method of ...the compositing of human element is ...akin to motion control would
do on human elements, and the other selection of non-dynamic elements of factory is akin to flash-selection would do on the details of machinery. as a whole it gives rise to much better control + image quality in the final composite-image, than would be accomplished
by a single click method requiring heavy duty flashes and expending exclusively
on large format film.
OTHER PRACTIAL USAGE OF MULTI-EXPOSURE AND
HIGH-SYNC:
F.57. I conclude here,
with an apparently simple functionality. Could you just believe that multi-exposure helps me to refine the contrast level,
in the photography for the study of Numismatic (study of coins, especially of ancient ones).
These procedures are favorable for film and Digital based photography. A
closer look on the salient features of the technique would enable to view the
details of the coin in a macro view.
F.58. Most of the requisite for a macro photography would utterly differ from the other fields
of photography. You have, a restricted choice on format, focal length of lens that could be used , aperture, the light source,
exposure compensation, developing time (extended one in B&W film),the concept of restrained developing,the properties
of lighting such as brilliance, illuminance , colour temperature,the metallic properties
such as reflectance,sheen,specular highlights that would heavily influence the micro details you could get at this
macro closeup range. I would say it is more critical than many of other fields of photography .so for that reason I have chosen
this topic to explain here.
Confusing?
To explain why
F.59. you
may not be able to select a larger format, the way you like to harness the benefit of higher definition (details). Because more than in excess of 1x, magnification, on a medium format will introduce ....objectionable level
of distortion (as we do not shoot at perfectly 90 degree)....At higher magnification the depth of fields to something like
as inch or a few millimeters ...restriction on placement of light for a proper
lighting etc., The answer to all these, is a choice of a ideal format, I have invariably has resorted to a smallest one ....
a 35mm format,... a focal length of 80mm to 100mm,... the aperture to choose would be around f16.
F.60. The
quest to locate a simple ,yet an ideal source of illumination is finally derived from extensive search. A tungsten light essentially like a Phillips reflector bulb
R95, produces the desired level of specular highlight, but a mild diffusion could
be suggested. Try to think of an alternative, if you are one who is fascinated
or brought up in photography with soft-box, fiber optics, diffusion dome, or a cone (as they are usually prescribed in various
photographic literatures). Sooner or later you would come to realize what I mean with respect to, what a simple bulb could do and more controllability you could
have. This realization (the process of perfection) took me a year or a couple,
and essentially more of a dedication.
F.61. The choice of film would be Agfa or interestingly enough it was Forte-pan
(for the extra punch that is required). T-max seems to unfit, (for it has its
inherent rendition of soft tonal value when what you really needed was more contrast to bring forth the characteristics of sparkling of a metal ). You could please
refer CRAFT OF PHOTOGRAPHY by Author David Vestal, for his authoritative and practical approach of B&W photography
and developing . But do you have the patience to read ? Although you are demanded
to similar kind of thing with slopes and curves in Digital, believe that I still
have not deviated from the prime issue i.e multi-exposure . The above description
has more relevance because the factors of camera vibration due to shutter would gain, a significant prominence due to the
proximity to the subject (magnification) and any camera induced vibration would also be magnified. As I said, I also adopt the help of multi-exposure to pull down the contrast to appropriate level. Here
it is nice opportunity to try what You yearn to try your hands with multiple
exposure in association with HDR of Digital photography , because the present medium itself has limited coverage of
tonal range (the D. Max) probably at 400:1 where as the B&W film may
have had a range of 4000:1 . Here is a subject where you need to capture from the dark to specular high-lights
F.62. In future, I
assume that this would also be a page dedicated to deal with practical photographic situation,a page to which a working photographer
could be attached tos. But I would curtail,
at this juncture,which only describes how a Photographer would circumvent a practical photographic situation. But my main topic her is suppose to be on Flash selection.
F60. The
annexture of “A dream to become true”.
Now take a note of these options
we know the preliminary exposure is made at f:8 @ 1/250th sec., for an ISO 100 . If the second exposure
(with flash) we would make can exploit the variable ISO facilities of a digital
camera , then setting to a ISO value of 200, we would base our exposure with
the multitude of options as per the following.
The options are:
a)....We now could match the flash power to that of Day-light at f:8 @1/500th.sec.
b)....or to expend only 1/2of the out put
potential of the flash and in so selecting f:5.6 @ 1/1000th sec.
c)....or a capacity to work from 1.5 times further a distance than earlier
it was. ie., 22.5feet instead of the earlier distance of 15 feet, expending the
full power of the flash for a f:8 @ 1/500th.sec exposure combination.
d)....or to work at 30 feet by expending the full power of of flash but at an working aperture of f:5.6 @ 1/1000th.
Sec
e)....or the feasibility to work at a distance of 60 feet with full throw of the flash for a f:2.8@ 1/4000th.sec.
Note that we are not zooming in the flash by concentrating the degree
of coverage of flash , while we are actually have been moving backwards increasing the distance between the camera and the
subject.
Would you like to know what the other options would be like when resorting
to ISO 400with respect to in the case of above.
a).... we can overpower the daylight with the flash by one stop more at an exposure combination of f:8 @ 1/1000th.sec.
b)...only 1/4th the power would be expended for a working at f: 5.6@1/2000th.sec.
d)....a working at 45feet using full power of flash for a F:5.6 @ 2000th.sce
e)....a distance of 75 feet with full power of the light for a f:2.8 @ 1/8000th.sec or f:4 @ 1/4000th.sec
at 60 feet distance.
Or
with the excessive flash power you have simulated ..... you could think of using of a polarizing filter (itself demanding
a filter factor of 1.5-2 stops of increment of exposure) permanently on the lens as a lens protecting gear future it would
also provide a better saturation of the foliage and the sky that would otherwise
not achievable by digital means in the truest sense.
Please note: The
information /guidance provided and my suggestions as above or from any of my
web page, of similar content published in my other web-sites are prohibited for commercial
usage or for publication purpose ,without the consent of the ,author s.kalaivanan the proponent of the idea/ concept